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How to Find a Good Breeder

2/6/2023

1 Comment

 

What IS An Ethical/Reputable Breeder?

Puppy Mills - Businesses who breed dogs many times during their lifespan, often in poor conditions, with little to no healthcare or affection.  These dogs are bred in large numbers and the business usually breeds many different breeds of dogs.  The only concern is profit.
Backyard Breeders - People who breed their dog without following through the proper steps to ensure their dog is a good candidate for breeding and will produce offspring that contribute to bettering the breed or making good pets.  Backyard breeders rarely do any health testing/genetic screening, won't take puppies back if needed, may breed their dogs excessively or just a single time and may stick to a single breed or a handful of breeds.  Often breed to "make back the money they spent on their dog", "earn a little side cash", or because they feel like their dog really needs to have at least one litter of puppies (or that they just really want to see how their dog is as a mom or dad).
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Photo courtesy of Amanda Pratt with Scout's Legacy Golden Retrievers
Ethical Breeders - Individuals who breed with a specific purpose in mind (usually to better the breed or looking for specific temperaments to perform specific jobs).  These breeders health test, screen potential puppy buyers, typically work with 1 (maybe 2) breeds, raise the puppies in their homes, have extensive socialization programs and will always take back dogs from their breeding programs when needed.  They love each and every one of their dogs they produce and will advocate for them and act as a safety net for their entire life.

Ethical/Reputable Breeder Checklist

Note that individual breeders vary and this is a general checklist.  If the breeder you're looking into has more than a few exceptions from the following list however, we would recommend finding another breeder who will likely provide you with better puppies and more long term support.
We cannot stress enough that if you are going to purchase a puppy, it is WELL worth the up front cost to pay for a puppy from a good breeder with a good breeding and socialization program.  These puppies may sound expensive, but on average, they're cheaper than rescue, puppy mill and backyard bred puppies once you factor in the extra vet bills, training, potential damages and legal fees.  We have had many clients deal with these issues and inform us it would have been cheaper to pay for a well-bred puppy.
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Photo courtesy of Amanda Pratt with Scout's Legacy Golden Retrievers
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Photo courtesy of Amanda Pratt with Scout's Legacy Golden Retrievers
  • Completes all recommended health testing recommended for their breed.  This can include but is not limited to things like PenHIP, OFA and Echocardiograms.  Bonus points if they do additional testing to go above and beyond breed specific recommended testing. 
  • Waits until dogs in breeding program are physically mature enough to breed and gives females time to rest and recover between breeding.  Some breeders breed back-to-back (meaning two litters in a row) but will then give the female an extra long time to rest between the next litter.  They will also retire females earlier, usually around 5-6 years of age and after just a few litters.
  • Will whelp and raise puppies in the breeder's home in a special space that is safe and has been specifically prepared for them.  Often sleeps next to mom and puppies for the first few weeks and constantly cleans and refreshes bedding while working on early training and socialization.
  • Will have a socialization program for the puppies to introduce new sights, sounds, smells, textures, people, animals, movements, objects, etc in a positive manner.  Will also start the puppies on crate training, potty-training, car rides and first puppy shots (done at the vet).
  • May or may not be willing to let you meet their dogs (thanks Covid) but will be happy to send you videos and answer any questions about their breeding dogs.  Note that many breeders won't have the breeding male on site due to artificial insemination often being the best way to get better genetic matches. 
  • Will be happy to talk with you and answer all of your questions.
  • Will have an extensive questionnaire for you to fill out to get to know you better and better match you with the right puppy.
  • Will probably choose your puppy for you after getting to know your personal preferences and lifestyle.
  • Will require a contract which will include the return of the puppy to the breeder if at any point you can no longer care for them.
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Photo courtesy of Amanda Pratt with Scout's Legacy Golden Retrievers
  • Will not charge more for coat color or "different" looking puppies.
  • Will not let puppies leave until at least 8 weeks old.
  • Will send puppies home with a puppy kit (usually includes things like food, paperwork, a toy, something that smells like mom and littermates, etc.)
  • Adult dogs in the breeding program usually have titles or awards from obedience, breed shows, sports, Canine Good Citizen or other programs that show the dogs' good temperament, training and ability to excel as a representative of their breed.
  • Will only have 1 (maaaaybe 2) litters at a time.  Many only have 1 litter available per year.
  • Will have a wait list for puppies.  It's possible to have the odd few puppies become available if a larger than expected litter happens or if a breeding prospect falls through and becomes a pet prospect, but these breeders don't usually even plan litters until they have puppy homes lined up in advance.
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Photo courtesy of Amanda Pratt with Scout's Legacy Golden Retrievers
  • Will probably be part of a breed parent club/organization, have dogs registered through a breed registry (often AKC - the American Kennel Club) and have other recognitions of their commitment to good breeding practices (such as the AKC Breeder of Merit).
  • Will have a network of other breeders and pet professionals to rely on for guidance, referrals and continuing education as needed.
  • Will sell puppies directly to the new puppy owners.  Will never sell puppies to pet stores or similar businesses that sell puppies in a retail location for profit.

How to Find an Ethical/Reputable Breeder

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Photo courtesy of Amanda Pratt with Scout's Legacy Golden Retrievers
Unfortunately, at this time there is no directory that is 100% guaranteed to give you only good breeders.  There are some that are better than others, but every directory has it's own set of issues, one way or another.  Some aren't fair to puppy buyers, some aren't fair to breeders and some don't care if breeders misrepresent their breeding programs.
It's best to use the above list as a guide and look for breeders through Google searches, breed-specific Facebook pages (ask members for referrals - that's how we found one of our favorite breeders), contact a local trainer to ask for referrals, go to local dog shows to meet different breeds and breeders (there are "Meet the Breed" events), or ask friends and family for referrals. 
Once you have a potential breeder's info, get as much information about them online or from your source as possible.  How much of it matches up with your list?  If they fit most of the list, the next step is to contact them!  Many breeders are somewhat busy and don't always respond right away.  Give them a couple of business days and try again.  If that doesn't work, switch to another method of communication.  Maybe they're more responsive via Facebook messenger than email.  For the record, I've NEVER had a pet professional get back to me when I've tried to contact them via an email form on their website.  I wouldn't start there.
Once you get in contact with the breeder, they should be as interested in you as you are in them.  If you get a weird vibe or bad gut feelings, take those into consideration.  If they seem like they don't have time for you (without an explanation - I once contacted a breeder when she had just whelped a litter - I completely understood when she told me she needed some time before she could talk), they may not be a good fit for you.  Your breeder will be an ongoing support in you and your puppy's life.  They are trusting you to take care of a puppy they love and they want you to succeed.
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Photo courtesy of Amanda Pratt with Scout's Legacy Golden Retrievers

Conclusion

It takes a little time and effort, but learning what to look for to find a good breeder can be so rewarding if you can manage to take home an amazing puppy from their incredible breeding program.  These dogs are usually a joy to live and work with.  A good breeder and breeding program can make all the difference.
If you have any questions or if this seems overwhelming, please contact us and we'd be happy to help you get started with finding some options.
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Photo courtesy of Amanda Pratt with Scout's Legacy Golden Retrievers

Additional Resources

Signs of a Responsible Breeder
Guide to Responsible Dog Breeding
Facebook Post
Copied from another breeder:

POTENTIAL OWNER: How much is the puppy?
BREEDER: $3,500
POTENTIAL OWNER: What?? It's way too expensive!!
BREEDER: What do you think would be a good price?
POTENTIAL OWNER: No more than $500. You breeders are so over priced.
BREEDER: I am sorry you see it this way, why don't you try it yourself?
POTENTIAL OWNER: But I've never done it!
BREEDER: For FREE I can teach you how to do it, and in addition you will have the knowledge to do it again.
POTENTIAL OWNER: Perfect, thank you!
BREEDER: To start you will need a female(average cost $3000 and up). Also a male(average cost $3000 and up) or semen (average $1000 and up). You will need to show them to their championship to show they meet the breed standard(Minimal $2000 with travel & fees). You will need to do genetic & health testing on them, averages about $750 per dog. Raise and provide daily care, feeding & grooming for 2 years. (So minimal $150 per month)
POTENTIAL OWNER: But I don't have that much money...
BREEDER: For $500 you can raise a liter and then keep one of the puppies. Obviously, you will pay the cost of whelping & care.
POTENTIAL OWNER: I can do that.
BREEDER: OK so I have a female due to whelp in 2 weeks. You will need to be available 24/7 around the clock for at least 8 weeks to help with delivery and care.
POTENTIAL OWNER: Eight weeks?? it's way too much time for me! I have to work.
BREEDER: You will also need the reproductive vet to do xrays($200-$500), possibly progesterone testing($75-$250) & C-section($1000-$5000) and initial vet care on pups until old enough to be placed.
Have on hand a scale, thermometer, latex gloves, sanitizer, absorbent tissues, scissors, hemostats, heating pad, whelping box, blankets, cleaning supplies, appropriate food with supplements for mothers, formula, medications & hand feeding supplies in case of emergency....
POTENTIAL OWNER: But I don't have all these things!
BREEDER: For $1000 you can buy them.
POTENTIAL OWNER: Ummm .... You know, I think it might be better if I just buy a puppy.
BREEDER: Wise decision.
For us breeders there are no vacations or holidays, while you go to visit with family & friends we are home at our dogs side caring for them. It is a no breaks commitment.
THIS IS THE REALITY
When you choose a professional you don't only pay for the puppy but also:
Tools, knowledge, experience, love, time, sacrifices, etc.
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Don't Choose a dog based on breed alone

2/3/2023

0 Comments

 

Intro - You may skip to the next section if you just want to get to it. :)

When I was younger - long before I had joined the dog training world - my sister and I wanted a dog.  My dad didn't.  We knew he was going to be a hard sell.  But between my sister's cuteness and my "breed research" and charts detailing which dog would be best, how to train it and addressing all of my dad's primary concerns, we got a dog.
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Dog #1 was a 50/50 Labrador Newfoundland mix named Lupin.  What I had read from books and online from the various breeder pages and breed standards told me both were good family dogs and I believed the Newfoundland would tone down the energy of the lab for a larger, more mellow dog. 
Lupin was something else entirely.  He looked like a shaggy black lab, had insane amounts of energy, was incredibly destructive, and the final straw was when he knocked me over and repeatedly ran me over without letting me up.  (It didn't help that the "research" on training I had done was nearly useless since I had found the outdated methods that don't work very well, especially for a child with a physical disability. Ever try alpha rolling a dog who's larger and more powerful than you when you sometime can't even walk?)
My sister and I protested, but Lupin found a home living on a ranch with a man who seemed genuinely thrilled to have him.
Somehow, we managed to talk our way into trying a second dog.  This time, I really researched.  My dad insisted on a small dog.  I wanted a dog that was easier to train and would be able to go on walks and runs (my sister was very active).  I found the rat terrier and it sounded like the perfect fit.  It checked all of the boxes and was easier as a first time pet than many other terriers.  Owner reviews were great.
Dog #2 was a purebred rat terrier named Scamp.  We got him from a backyard breeder (though we didn't know that at the time).  Scamp was a challenge to train (didn't help that I was still relying on outdated methods) and he never learned most skills.  He was an anxious dog, he bonded to my sister and didn't want much to do with most other people unless they were feeding him.  He was mostly a couch potato and didn't seem interested in learning. He enjoyed walks, but was not interested in exercise beyond that (unless he managed to bolt out the front door in which case he ran through the neighborhood quite happily).  He was scared of other dogs.  His only other animal friend was the family cat.  Learning didn't seem to come easily to him and he seemed most content with his routine.  Anything outside of that routine would cause him stress.  He had a multiple bite history.  He definitely didn't resemble the rat terrier breed I had learned about.
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Fast forward about 10 years and I was now well into my training career.  I had worked with hundreds of dogs and many, many different breeds.  One breed that stood out to me as one I wouldn't want to have based on my experience with dozens of members of that breed was the miniature schnauzer.
They seem like sweethearts and I totally get the people who enjoy them as pets, but many of the ones I had worked with were very anxious, barky (oh that schnauzer bark), and they weren't very social with people or animals. 
One day, a client brought two mini schnauzers to my agility class.  I immediately started thinking of modifications we could do to make things as easy as possible since these dogs probably wouldn't be very confident and I put them near a door so they could step into the hallway if the dogs started barking and needed a moment to settle.  To my great surprise, these were the two best dogs in that class.  They were confident, calm, ready to try anything we asked, ignored the other dogs (even the dogs who were struggling), and never barked once. 
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I was shocked.  I had never seen mini schnauzers behave like that - and these were young as well (I think one was a year and the other was a year and a half at that time).  I asked their owner where she had gotten them from and she told me about this amazing breeder who did health testing, titled her dogs, selected for temperament, then had an entire socialization program she started with the puppies and had the new owners finish with their puppies at home.
I knew about ethical breeders who did these things, but I didn't know until this moment, what a massive difference in behavior a good breeding program can make.  Check out my blog post on How to Find a Good Breeder for more info.

Breed Matters, BUT There's More You Need to Know

Pure Bred vs Well Bred

IF you have a reliable breeding program, temperament, health and structure will still show up as a bell curve.  You're still going to have outliers in an established breeding program with championship lines.  Some breeders have found ways to increase reliable results in one area, but that often increases flux in other areas.
In lines that aren't well established, like backyard breeders and puppy mills (which btw is where all those pet store puppies come from), you may have a pure bred dog, but it's very unlikely to be a well bred dog.  There's usually little, if any thought placed on temperament, health or structure, which leads to higher rates of behavior problems, health issues and structural issues like luxating patellas, arthritis or hip dysplasia.
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Backyard/puppy mill breeders also don't typically raise their puppies inside the home or have a solid socialization program to give the puppies and their owners the best possible start in life.  See our blog post on socialization to learn what it is and why it's so important for a confident, well-adjusted adult dog.  They also often use cheap vaccines/dewormers that haven't been stored properly, making them ineffective.  Odds are good that if your breeder didn't take their puppies to the vet for treatments, you'll have to start all over when they come home with you.

Working vs Pet lines

Another consideration is what kind of lines are the breeder using? Are they focusing on dogs who are being bred to work?  Or are they breeding lines that are a little more toned down to be better pets?
There's a big different in temperament and energy levels of working line labradors (called field labs) and breeders who breed them specifically as pets.  You can find amazing, ethical breeders for both types, but you want to make sure your breeder is breeding the type of lines that will fit your lifestyle best. 
Join breed specific groups and talk to reputable, ethical breeders if you have questions about what would be the best fit for you.  It may turn out that another breed entirely would be a better fit. 
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Mixed Breeds and Designer Dogs

Mixed breeds and designer dogs are always a toss up when it comes to what you'll get with temperament and health as an adult. It would be great to say "this dog is 30% great dane and 70% lab so it will act 30% like a great dane and 70% like a lab."  But that's not how genetics work.  You may get a dog like that, but most of the time you'll get a dog with random characteristics from both parents and then a few brand new things thrown in as well.
It takes roughly 50 generations to establish a breed and for specific temperaments and health traits to start to stick.  There are currently no designer breeds (sorry doodles) that meet these requirements.  You might be able to find a more reputable breeder for a designer breed who's breeding amazing dogs with great temperaments.  You'll likely still get a decent dog out of them, but be aware that it's still a larger gamble and you're paying more money for a lower chance of what you want.
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Socialization Matters a LOT!!!!!

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Run, screaming, away from any breeder who doesn't raise the puppies inside.  Who doesn't have a socialization program.  Who doesn't start potty-training and crate training.  Who hasn't introduced the puppies to new sounds, objects, textures, smells, movements, other people, kids, other animals, car rides, clipped nails, brushed them, bathed them, handled them extensively.
These are all things your puppy will need to accept if not master as part of their normal lives. If your breeder can't bother to help give you a head start during the easiest time to start this in your puppy's life, find another breeder who will.  You and your breeder are a team.  It's your breeder's job to teach you how to continue to socialize your puppy until that socialization window closes.  Your breeder is entrusting you with the care of this puppy and it is your job to do your best to set you and your puppy up for lifelong success.
For the record, I've seen some dogs from amazing lines really struggle because they didn't get good socialization during their socialization window.  I've also seen plenty of mixed breed and backyard bred dogs who are pretty rock solid behaviorally because they had amazing socialization experiences.  It counts for a lot.  Genetics, training, health, enrichment and environment make up the rest.

If This Seems Overwhelming...

That's ok.  We all started there and felt some degree of panic.
Take your time to stalk breed-specific Facebook groups.  Personally, I always look at the group files (if there are any) and just observe conversations fly-on-the-wall style for a while before posting.
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Narrow down your breed options and contact a few breeders for that breed.  Again, check out the blog on how to find a good breeder. Ask questions.  A good breeder will expect you to vet them as much as they vet you.  If they aren't a good fit, they should be able to recommend a breeder or another resource who is.
Contact a trainer (hi).  Many trainers are more than happy to help you find a good fit.  We'd love to see you have a positive relationship with your dog and start off on the right note.
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How to handle off leash dogs

9/14/2022

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If you're here, odds are good you've had one or more encounters with off leash dogs.  Maybe those encounters were innocent.  Maybe they were devastating.  It's hard to know what's going to happen each time you leave your home with your dog (and/or your human child), so it's best to manage your risk and be prepared for as much as possible.
This post will go over ideas on how to advocate for your dog, protect yourself and your dog, how to talk to owners of off-leash dogs and what to do when nothing works.  This post is meant as a general guide and does not cover every possible scenario.  Nor is it meant as an individualized training plan.  If your dog has developed fear, reactivity, aggression or other hazardous behaviors toward themselves or others, always seek the help of a qualified pet professional.
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Helpful Tools

Squirt bottle - filled with water is ok, filled with diluted vinegar is more effective.
Treats - high value treats for the off leash dog and/or to reward/distract your dog.
Pet Corrector/Air horn - you will need to desensitize your dog to the sound of this before using this on other dogs.  Otherwise, you may build a fear response that your dog will associate with other dogs.
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Umbrella - the kind the pops open suddenly with the click of a button.  Again, you will need to desensitize your dog to this first.
Carabiner - a heavy duty one (rated for climbers) attached to the leash handle that you can easily attach to a fence or around a pole.
Slip lead - this is a leash that combines the leash and collar feature (for short-term use only!). Use this to more easily catch off leash dogs.  You can then walk them back to their owners or if no owner is present, you can call animal control.  Calling animal control sounds mean, but it's better for the dog than getting hit by a car or getting taken by people who will use the dog for dog fighting or animal testing.
Pepper spray/gel - be aware there are some liability issues with this one if the spray/gel gets on another person (especially a child).  I do prefer the gel because there is less back spray.
Walking stick/tennis racket - or something long you can use as an extension of your arm.
Taser walking stick/cattle prod - the vast majority of dogs won't need something this drastic and those that do may not be phased by it.  You can certainly give it a shot if it helps you feel safer though.  Some people have said that just the crackling sounds these make will scare off dogs. 
Muzzle - I'm a huge fan of muzzle-training for a variety of reasons, but using a muzzle kind of sucks in this regard.  The reasons being - 1) if your dog has a bad experience while wearing a muzzle they might not like their muzzle anymore, 2) your dog is unable to defend themselves if they're attacked.  While they shouldn't have to and you should be the advocate for your dog, things don't always work out that way.  Imagine being attacked by someone with a knife while your hands were tied behind your back.  Not fun.
I'm bringing this up here though because you can use a muzzle as an effective management tool if done correctly and because if an off leash dog attacks your dog and is harmed, a judge is almost always going to side with the dog who was muzzled. 

Management

Always be present and aware of your surroundings when out with your dog.  Try to avoid blind corners or tight spaces where you'll be trapped.  If needed, place your dog in a wait, then walk ahead of them to check to see if things are clear to move forward.
Don't take your dog to places where other dogs are off leash.  If you get to a park and you see off leash dogs, either politely ask the owner to leash their dog before you get your dog out of your car, or find a different park.
If you see an off leash dog anywhere nearby, secure your dog first.  Walk (don't run) them the other direction and try to get them somewhere safe (back in your home, your car, a fenced yard, etc).  You may ask the owners of the off leash dog to leash their dog if you'd like to continue to use the area.  I've found that a good way to politely do this is to say "Hey, this is a leash law area.  I've got an extra leash if you need one."
Most people get embarrassed, decline the extra leash, call their dog and leave.
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If you cannot physically manage your dog (they pull excessively on leash, they're reactive around other dogs, they like to chase people on bikes, etc) please seek professional help from a qualified dog trainer.  Do NOT walk your dog by yourself. 
If you are like a few of our clients (or like Haylee) and just seem to run into off leash dogs wherever you go, take 1-2 extra people with you to help ward off other dogs. 
Learn dog body language.  This is something you should learn if you have a dog anyway, but it's great to know what might be going on in an unknown dog's head as they approach you.  Is their body language friendly and derpy?  Is it stiff and intimidating?  Are they locking eyes with your dog and barreling straight toward them?  Are they coming 5 steps forward then 2 steps backward and repeating that pattern as they approach?  What could this all mean? 
The more knowledge you have, the better equipped you'll be to deal with a variety of situations.

Considerations

How you manage an off leash dog and which tools you'll use each time will vary depending on each encounter.  Unfortunately, you won't often be familiar with these dogs and their behaviors so you'll need to make snap decisions based on educated guesses and your gut.  Sometimes you'll be wrong. 
The more you practice and learn about dog body language, breed tendencies and how your own dog responds to different types of dogs, the more often you'll be able to make the best decisions.
One of the first things to note is the size of the dog.  Size in no way determines behavior or likelihood for aggression, but size does mean they can probably inflict a lot more damage should they choose to.  I'm less willing to mess around with larger dogs - especially more powerfully built dogs.
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How far away is the dog and how much reaction time do you have?  If the dog is barreling full speed at you from 20 feet away, you don't have time to play with milder deterrents.  You need to pick something that's going to work NOW.
On the other hand, if the dog is 50 feet away and is casually trotting toward you, you have time try a few options before increasing your aversives.
If the dog is 100 feet away and has seen you but hasn't started moving toward you or is slowly making their way toward you, you have time to try walking your dog away while throwing high value treats back toward the dog to distract them while you escape.
Is the dog likely to cause harm?  This is a difficult question to answer, but you can make some educated guesses based on body language and breed.  If the off leash dog is a terrier type or powerfully-built type, these dogs may not get along with other dogs as well.  Many of the larger, powerful breeds were bred for independent work (not cooperative work with other dogs).  Most terriers still think it's fun to kill small animals (which is what they were bred to do).  This doesn't mean that every dog like this won't get along with other dogs or that dogs who don't fit into these categories can't be dog reactive/aggressive.  Herding breeds are actually known for anxiety and reactivity when they don't have a job. 
Does the dog have loose, wriggly body language?  Are they giving play signals like bowing, high-pitched barks, jumping, or other exaggerated movements?  This dog is probably friendly. 
Does the dog have stiff movements, lowered head, hard stare, hackles up, teeth barred, stiffly wagging tail? This dog is probably scared, unsure or warning you/your dog to back off.
What about your dog?  Do they like other dogs?  How do they respond to meeting other dogs?  If they love everyone, you won't have to worry about many off leash dogs because many of them truly are derpy and friendly.  You'll still want to avoid off leash encounters to teach your dog to focus on you when out and about and you'll still want to avoid the unfriendly off leash dogs.  But less stress for you!  Yay!
If, like us, you have a dog who doesn't want to be best friends with everyone and is willing to throw down if another dog gets in their space for too long, you'll want to avoid encounters from ALL off leash dogs.
Owners of off leash dogs aren't always around.  Even if they are, you have to assume they'll be mostly useless in retrieving their dog before the dog gets to you.  In our experience, less than 10% of the time have owners been able to recall their off leash dog away from us and our dogs. 
You'll have to decide to what extent you want to interact with off leash dog owners if they are present.  ALWAYS advocate for you, your dog and/or your kids.  We've found that being rude is seldom productive, but you can be kind and firmly hold your ground.  Practice various scenarios and interactions in your head or with a partner so you're better prepared when they actually happen.
Decide ahead of time whether you'd like to get away with minimal interaction, you'd like to kindly educate the person (who probably won't respond well) and give them a leash or if you're willing to try catching an off leash dog and calling animal control to come get it (once your dog is secure). 

Actions

Here's a list of more common actions you can take, starting with less intrusive options and working up to more intrusive and aversive options. Again, you'll need to decide which tools to use and which you're more comfortable using depending on each situation and the needs of your own dog. 
1.  Use your most authoritative voice to loudly back them off.  Take a purposeful step toward them and yell "Go home", "Back off", "No!", "Eh! Eh!" or whatever makes you feel the most confident.  Let them know you aren't happy about them being here and you mean business. 
2.  Throw a handful of high value (smelly, soft) treats at the face of the approaching dog.  This works pretty well for most dogs because being bonked in the face is distracting and once they realize what it is, they usually stop to search for all of the treats before moving toward you again.  This gives you time to escape or come up with a plan.  You may need to repeat this multiple times before you reach a safe location where you can put a barrier between you and the dog... or before their owner comes to get them.
For the record, this is the safest way to handle the situation if you don't know the dog and aren't sure if they'll bite if you escalate the situation.
3.  Squirt them in the face with water/vinegar solution.  While this can sting and cause some irritation, it doesn't generally cause long-term damage.  This will ward off most dogs who are just curious or coming over to play.  Again, repeat as needed.
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4.  Startle them away with a can of Pet Corrector, an airhorn or a rapid-open umbrella. Pet Corrector (or similar products) are very portable and effective at startling strange animals.  Note that if the dog recovers fairly quickly after being startled, the approach probably won't work again.  Switch to something else.
5.  Use a walking stick/tennis racket as an extension of your arm to ward them off or swing at them.  It's often helpful to combine this with step 1.
You can also pick up a rock and throw it near the dog, or pretend like you're going to throw it if you don't have one.  Most dogs recognize what it looks like when you're about to throw something.
6.  Some people swear by taser walking sticks or cattle prods since these are longer and cause brief, but intense, amounts of pain.  A few people have mentioned that just the crackling noise they make once you activate them will scare off some dogs.  These can be great for personal protection as well, but they're more expensive and awkward to carry around.  I would try other options before this one.
7.  Pepper gel/spray or bear spray is another option that's ready available and portable.  As mentioned above, you have to be somewhat careful about liability with the spray and it can cause permanent damage.  I would use this as a last defense and even then, try to aim for the front feet/legs if possible. 
You may need to try multiple things before convincing an off leash dog to leave.  Or, you may find a combination of things is more effective for some dogs.  Whatever you decide to use, always practice going through the motions with and without your dog.
If you have a carabiner at the end of your dogs' leash and you're alone, use that to clip them to a nearby fence or quickly wrap them around a nearby object to secure them so you can focus solely on the off leash dog.  Ideally, you would also be working on teaching your dog a rock solid stay so you can just place them in a stay behind you while you deal with any off leash dogs for them.
You can also walk them back to your home, your car or a fenced yard.
If you feel so inclined and once your dog is secured, you can use a slip lead (keep one in your car or in your treat pouch/pocket) to try to catch the off leash dog.  Note that catching an unknown dog comes with liability - they may bite/scratch, carry disease or parasites and/or the owner might get mad at you for catching their dog for them.  Unless you feel confident in your dog-handling skills and you're willing to accept the risk of disease and parasites, don't attempt to catch an off leash dog.
If you do catch an off leash dog, you can try to locate the owner and return the dog or call animal control or your local non-emergency police dispatch. 
If your dog has a history of getting into scuffles/fights with other dogs, especially if they have a bite history, consider teaching them to wear a properly fitted muzzle on walks.  This reduces your liability and can increase your confidence, knowing your dog is less likely to harm others.  If you choose this route, you must be able to advocate for your dog and handle off leash encounters (or on leash encounters) for them.  We highly recommend walking with a friend to help you.
This Facebook group is a great resource if you're new to muzzles and need help finding and sizing the right one for your dog.

If All Else Fails

So what happens if nothing works and the off leash dog gets to your dog?  Don't panic.  Many times you can get out of it without any altercation still.
1.  Immediately relax your dog's leash if there's any tension on it.  Drop the leash entirely if your dog isn't a flight risk.  Dogs do much better greeting other dogs when they can move around freely and use natural body language to communicate intentions. 
2.  Breathe.  Is the owner of the other dog nearby?  Call them over.  If you can't spot them and there are people nearby, loudly ask "Can I get help with this dog?". 
If no one's around, go to step 3.
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3.  Talk to your dog in a high-pitched, happy voice.  Say something like "Look!  A new friend came to say hi!  Aren't they just so pretty?  Do you want to say hi?"
Let the dogs sniff and interact for approximately 3 seconds, then, as long as your dog doesn't resource guard food, show the other dog a handful of high-value treats, then toss those a couple feet away from you and your dog.  Once the other dog goes to find the treats, say "Thanks for visiting, we need to go now!" and walk away with your dog. 
4.  Once you've put some distance between you and the off-leash dog repeat the Action steps for off leash dogs as necessary until you're safe or until the owner secures their off leash dog.
If at any point a scuffle (I call them yelling matches because they're loud and scary but usually don't result in injuries) or a fight breaks out, see the Fight Protocol blog post - or contact us and we'll send you a handout.
Rarely, but it does happen, there are dogs who are so intent on doing harm that very little will deter them some of these tools make even increase aggression.  The odds of running into one of these dogs are small, but not zero.  If you encounter one of these, scream for help and do what you need to do to protect yourself and your dog.  Check your local laws on what your options are to protect yourself from off leash dogs.  In many areas, lethal force is allowed. 

How to Make a Change

1.  Educate friends, family, neighbors, anyone who will listen, about the importance of leash safety and why they need to leash their dogs.  Talk to them about what to do if they encounter an off leash dog.
2.  Be kind when confronting owners of off-leash dogs.  Most will still be unhappy with you, but some will listen and will change their actions.  No one listens when they feel attacked.
3.  Start a petition and collect signatures to enforce leash laws, collect off leash encounter stories, videos and pictures, get local pet pros to make statements in favor of leash safety and the dangers of off leash dogs and submit to your local leaders (usually city council, but you can try directly working with police departments, or higher offices).
4.  Find ways to teach children about leash safety.  They are the future dog owners and they are like little sponges when it comes to learning.  Volunteer to give a presentation at your kid's school, church, club, etc.).
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Conclusion

We hope this has been helpful (it's long - we know).  If you have questions or need further help with your specific situation, please reach out and we'd be happy to talk with you!
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The hazards of off leash dogs

8/23/2022

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Most people who let their dogs off leash are simply unaware of the risks or problems associated with doing so.  This post is here to address some of those potential hazards and to hopefully educate.  You don't know what you don't know, but when you know better, hopefully your behavior will change for the better.  Good human!
And before we dive into things, if your dog doesn't have good leash skills, a solid recall and leave-it, and especially if they struggle with anxiety/reactivity, flexi-leads (retractable leashes) are barely better in most cases than letting your dog off leash.  The vast majority of the time flexi-leads are used incorrectly.  Please don't use these unless your dog already has a solid understanding of the above-mentioned behaviors, is calm in public settings and can easily focus on you around distractions.
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Flexi leads are well known for increasing or causing problem behaviors, snapping under tension, causing burns/lacerations and otherwise malfunctioning at the worst possible moment.  Your best bet if you have one is to toss it and learn to use a long line and harness instead (which we'll be happy to teach you and your dog how to use if you'd like).

But my dog is friendly and loves everyone.  Why can't they be off leash?

We love that your dog has an outgoing personality.  Unfortunately, not every other dog does.  Just like people, dogs have a range of personalities and interaction histories.  If your dog accidentally runs up to another dog who hasn't had great experiences with other dogs and may think they need to fight for their life, this could end very badly for both dogs.  Even if no physical damage is done from an altercation, one or both dogs can come away with multiple behavior problems.  These can escalate over time, especially with multiple incidents. 
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We've had many clients who used to have friendly, outgoing dogs who called us to work with dogs who were now anxious and reactive - as far as we could tell, many of these cases started with one or several off-leash dog encounters (either the client's dog was off leash or someone else's dog was).
Not all people love dogs either.  Some are allergic and can't interact with animals safely.  Others have trauma and are fearful of animals.  And others are just horrible people who hate animals.  Just kidding.  But for real, it's rude to let your dog run to random people and except everyone to love attention from your dog. 
For people and dogs who have past trauma with other dogs, just seeing an off leash dog can be trigger.  Be mindful that public spaces are there for everyone to enjoy and leashing your dog is the law in those spaces.  If there are others around, your off-leash dog may be causing them to feel unsafe.  I know we sound like sticks in the mud, but we both love animals and chose to work with them professionally.  We both still have some anxiety around off-leash dogs because between the two of us, we've had these experiences from off-leash dogs (as children and adults):
- 1 bite to the face
- 2 cats killed
- 1 bunny killed
- chased multiple times when on walk with a toddler
- both rushed too many times to count when walking personal and client dogs

My dog is really well trained.  Why can't they be off leash?

Lots of treats to you for training your dog!  Hopefully you've done training in a way that your dog enjoys and understands the desired behaviors in a variety of contexts.  Translation - hopefully you did the training correctly and put in the work so your dog knows what to do and how to respond no matter what's going on around them.  This process is called proofing.  The sad thing is, the vast majority of people who train their dogs never bother to fully proof behaviors. 
The dog might understand the behavior really well at home or in other familiar environments or situations, but if something novel happens or something they don't feel good about appears/happens, they're no longer sure what to do.  That's when things can go south. 
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We see this a fair amount.  We've seen dogs on all sorts of training tools fail to understand and bolt over to something more exciting (like another dog, a duck pond, someone on a bike, etc).  We've seen dogs from other trainers do this.  We've seen dogs who have obedience titles do this.
There's another part of the equation.  To quote a friend, "dogs are basically toddlers with superpowers."  You can't always expect them to make the best choices.  Even if you've done the work with them.  Also, dogs have off/bad days just like people do.  Unless you're really tuned into your dog and reading their signals, you may not know if they're capable of the same behaviors, decisions and impulse control they were yesterday. 

There's no one else nearby and my dog is focused on their toy.  Why can't they be off leash?

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The number 1 reason we get charged by off-leash dogs is because they're playing with a toy off-leash some distance away and at some point they spot us working with a dog and book it over.  To be fair, many of these dogs see us and don't care, but many more dog come over and appear to be friendly.  However, see the first question again for why this still isn't ok.
Guess what?  If you're far away from people and dogs while playing with your dog and they suddenly rush over to someone else with their dog, where are you?  Far away right?  Unable to really help when you need to.  And I'm betting your dog isn't under voice control.  At least 90% of the ones we encounter aren't.

Why don't people just keep their aggressive dogs at home so everyone else can enjoy places with their dogs off leash then?

We get this attitude and mentality a lot.  It's a good question with a complicated answer having to do with why dogs are no longer as dog social and dog tolerant as they once were.  Gone are the days when people let their family dog out loose to roam the city with other family dogs each day.  Our culture and habits have changed and that has effected our canine companions.  It would be interesting to go back and study canine behavior and social patterns during those times for sure.  But I digress.
Today, less than 10% of dogs are truly dog social.  Maybe another 40% are dog tolerant.  Meaning about 10% of dogs are social butterfly who love almost all dogs and about 40% of dogs tolerate most dogs but would probably be happier doing something else.  The rest are either dog selective (which we are seeing more and more of) or dog aggressive (which is not super well-named because it's misleading, but we'll go with that for now).
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That means that according to today's numbers, HALF of all pet dogs would never be allowed to enjoy public spaces and another 40% would much rather enjoy those public spaces without being constantly pestered by strange dogs.  Only 10% would love to run around free and say hi to all the dogs. 
That's not going to work is it?  It's much easier to be considerate and accommodate the needs of the majority of dogs AND people who would enjoy boundaries and consensual interactions. 
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read this before letting your dog off leash

8/19/2022

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We've made no secret that one of our biggest pet peeves is off-leash dogs.  Check out our blog post on The Hazards of Off-Leash Dogs for all of our reasons.  Don't get us wrong, letting your dog off-leash in a safe environment and watching them have the freedom to run and explore is one of the best feelings in the world. 
But so many people don't know when it's safe to do so that it makes it very challenging to safely let dogs off-leash who have actually earned the ability to be off-leash.  They let their dogs run free with little to no voice control - and often you're lucky if the off leash dogs' owner is paying any attention to them at all!
There are leash laws in most parts of the US and in many other parts of the world as well.  Those leash laws, whether you agree with them or not, are there for the collective safety of everyone.  Unfortunately, not every dog is dog friendly.  Even if yours is, the dog on leash that your dog runs up to may not be.  Many children (and full grown adults we might add) don't know how to behave around dogs and can easily contribute to behavior problems and escalating situations.  Many dogs simply don't have enough experience and training to make good decisions out in public (or often at home either). 
The sad truth is you could have the best trained, sweetest, friendliest dog in the world and still run into trouble if you run into an off-leash dog.  Or if your dog is off leash and has a bad day or you stop paying attention for a few seconds.  It happens all of the time.  You don't want to hear the stories we've been told.  You don't want to go through the physical and emotional pain many of our clients have been through because of off-leash encounters - both from their dogs being off leash when they shouldn't have been and when they've encountered off leash dogs.
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However, there continues to be an epidemic of people who let their dogs off-leash.  If you fit into the category of dog owners who feels strongly about needing to take their dog off-leash in leash law areas,
first - we DO NOT condone this - there are other ways and places to give your dog the enrichment they need
second - if you MUST, at least do so with a solid set of safety parameters in place to prevent as many incidents as possible.

Off Leash Safety Rules

1.  Do not take your dog off leash if they don't have a solid recall (Come cue) in all locations and contexts.
2.  Do not let your dog off leash if they don't have a solid leave-it cue in all locations and with all objects (greatly preferred they also know this cue with other animals and people).  Leave-it DOES NOT mean leave it alone until mom/dad gets distracted and then I'll try again.  If your dog continues to try to get to something they've been told to leave, leash them immediately.
3.  Don't let your dog run up to unknown dogs and people.  Just as you wouldn't run up to random dogs and strangers or let your kids run up to random dogs and strangers, don't let your dog either.  It's rude without asking first.  Some people are scared of dogs.  Some dogs are scared of other dogs.  Honestly, it's safer for your dog and better for your bond with your dog to not let them greet other dogs and people without a purpose.
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4.  Do not take your dog off leash if there are other unknown dogs within sight.  I know.  It's annoying.  But this is a huge one.  We've worked with so many clients that have massive behavior issues, trauma and vet bills that could have been avoided if this had been followed.  I can't tell you how many times we've had dogs charge our personal dogs, client dogs and classes from across an entire park once they spotted us.
5.  If you're going to take your attention off your dog to talk with a friend, work with another dog, pick up your phone, etc, your dog goes back on leash.
6.  Always have a leash, treats and/or toys on you!  This sounds like a no-brainer, but it's insane how many people we've had to give a leash to because they didn't have one.  It's insane how many people have no game plan to get their dog back if they decide to run off.  Make sure you have something your dog really likes and see rule 1. 
But also, dogs aren't robots and you can't train 100% for every context.  Odds are decent that even a well-trained dog will eventually find something more interesting than you.  Always have a back-up plan and never get cocky.
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7.  Don't let your dog off leash around large groups of people, lots of kids or playgrounds.  Again, I know.  Your dog may love people, but the risk for trigger-stacking is way too high and liability skyrockets around kids.  And honestly, our experience training service dogs out in public is that a lot of people just aren't trustworthy around dogs.  It's easier to advocate for your dog and keep them safely out of trouble if they're leashed and next to you. 
We hope this helps create a safer environment for people and their dogs.  As always, we are open to answering questions and would love to chat with you!
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Realistic Pet Care Expectations

7/5/2022

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If you’re reading this, you’ve probably seen or been on the receiving end of some pretty judgmental posts about what qualifies as proper pet care.  This is for everyone who’s scared to post and ask questions in groups, who’s been on the receiving end of unkind comments when asking for advice, and/or those who are new or experienced pet keepers looking to better their animal husbandry.
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Ok, so first off, if you’ve already tried looking for help for your pet and you’ve had a bad experience – I am so sorry.  You are doing the right thing by trying to find better care for your pet.  You are being a responsible pet owner by educating yourself and trying to build a better life for them and a better relationship between you and your pet.  We absolutely commend those efforts here.  We believe strongly in “You don’t know what you don’t know and when you know better, you do better.”  Except we’ve tweaked that last part to “As you CAN do better, do better.”
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We recognize that not everyone is in the position to change every single thing to meet ideal criteria of care the second they learn what those standards are.  Emotional/mental health, physical limitations, financials restraints, living conditions, environment, etc, all play a part in what you can and cannot immediately change in your pet’s life. 
Keep in mind that those limitations/conditions may change throughout your life/your pets’ life as well.
With that in mind, let’s talk about some of the basics we should be looking for in pet care if you choose to bring a pet into your home.
Bare Minimum
  • You should be able to provide a secure enclosure/home your pet can’t escape from and hurt themselves or others.
  • You should provide proper basic nutritional needs for that species that won’t cause any deficiencies.  You should know if that species needs supplements added to their diet and how often to give those.
  • You should provide fresh, clean water (unless otherwise recommended – some species get all their water from their diet – like isopods).
  • You should provide all necessary veterinarian care.
  • You should provide grooming/sanitary cleaning help (such as helping with stuck sheds as needed) as needed for each species/breed.
  • You should provide minimum exercise needs, particularly for young, adolescent and young adult animals.
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Better:
  • You should provide a comfortable enclosure/home with multiple areas where your pet can relax/hide.
  • You should provide a good diet, with high quality ingredients and variety in the diet (not the same thing every time (unless you happen to have like a panda or a koala or something similar).
  •  Multiple access points of fresh water (if recommended for the species), and a place where they can choose to bath/soak (if appropriate).
  • All necessary vet care with regular check ups.
  • Still provide all necessary grooming/sanitary help, learning to do this quickly for individuals who get easily stressed or hiring a qualified professional who your pet is more comfortable with (or at least who can do a better, faster job than you).  Treat your pet with their favorite thing after.
  • Provide recommended species appropriate exercise and give them a variety of activities to participate in throughout their entire lives.
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Ideal:
  • Provide them with the largest possible enclosure you can still safely secure.  They should have many areas to hide/relax (for house-roaming pets, one area per room is idea).  They should not be disturbed while resting if at all possible.
  • Research nutrition for your specific pet and provide a variety of well-sourced nutrition for them.  Include any recommended vitamins or supplements (talk to a vet or pet nutritionist if you’re unsure) that may benefit your specific pet to see if those help.
  • Multiple access points of fresh water and bathing/soaking area (if appropriate).  Water play is also great for appropriate species who enjoy water.  Aquatic species can learn specific behaviors underwater (turtles can touch targets underwater and fish can swim through hoops underwater). Some horses like to splash in puddles.  Some dogs like to dive for toys in shallow water.  Figure out what works for your pet.
  • All necessary vet care with regular check ups.  Include preventative care when appropriate.  For example, all dogs and cats in the US must legally be up to date with their rabies vaccine.
  • Learn how to do cooperative care correctly (without flooding your pet or putting them in a state of learned helplessness – the two most common grooming tactics humans use) and teach your pet to tell you when they do and do not wish to participate in grooming and hygiene care. I’m telling you – it’s so worth it.  It’s so much easier in the long run.
  • Try to replicate as much of your pets’ natural wild behaviors they would normally do (as long as you can do so safely) in captivity.  If you have a species that’s considered domesticated, like dogs, you have no wild counter-part to draw from.  Instead, look at the behaviors your dog enjoys doing and give them opportunities to safely do those things.  You dog likes to dig?  Great!  Build them a digging pit in your yard.  They like to steal food from your counters?  Stuff their meals inside of food puzzles/dispensers and watch them have fun working for their food!
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Some of these things may sound daunting, or undoable at the moment.  That’s ok.  That’s where most people start.  We don’t expect you to do all the things all at once.  Just make the changes when you can.  If you feel completely over your head with even the basics, try asking friends or family for help, or asking online if someone is able to help you out (many people are open to trading pet care).
If you don’t think you’re a good fit for your pet or vice versa (maybe you got a pet and then learned how much work they’d be), try rehoming them yourselves first to a good home.  Then try a rescue.  Shelters are a last resort since they have the least amount of resources generally and many of them are kill shelters.  One exception is if you have a medical emergency and can’t afford the vet care, please consider surrendering your animal to a rescue or shelter.  They often can get your pet the care they need.
Here are a few general sources on where to find info on animal husbandry.
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Questionable Sources:
  • Pet Stores – Pet store employees are notorious for giving terrible animal husbandry advice and for selling you inappropriate enclosures and products for your pet.  There are some employees who are amazing and know what they’re talking about.  Just be cautious.
  • Breeders – There are a lot of great breeders out there who are up-to-date and know all about modern husbandry and behavior for their species.  For some reason though, there are far more who aren’t.  Again, be cautious.
  • Veterinarians/Vet Techs – Again, there are vets that are out there who know a lot about animal behavior and husbandry, but it seems like the vast majority know less about that than a pediatrician knows about child psychology.
  • Pet Trainers/Pet Pros – This one hurts my heart because I know a lot of great pet pros who are more than qualified sources of info.  But again, though the tide is turning in favor of science-based, modern practices of animal care, there are still tons of pet professionals living decades behind the times.  Just vet your sources.  See my other blog post on How to Find a Good Dog Trainer.
  • Random online articles/blogs/websites – it’s really hit and miss with what kind of info you’ll get.
Better Sources:
  • Peer-reviewed studies
  • Peer-reviewed articles
  • Websites/pages/books/blogs, etc. of scientists, ethologists and behaviorists (real behaviorists with degrees and certifications)
  • Some Facebook groups – hobbyist groups that are dedicated to science-based care and education are great (these are easier to find for small animal species – note that if they’re picky about their rules that’s a good sign)
  • Some YouTube/Instagram/TikTok accounts – again easier to find good ones for small animal species – look for people who say science-based, positive reinforcement and who are certified (but positive reinforcement and certification aren’t as common with small animals)
  • Certification/Education Organizations – Science-based organizations like IAABC, Animal Training Academy, Behavior Works, Behavior Vets, etc. are phenomenal educational resources
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Everyone’s goal as a pet owner should be to one day reach those ideal markers with each pet they care for.  However, start with the changes you’re able to make now.  Start with the things that matter most to you and your pet first – the things that affect health and safety are often on that list.  Then work on things that build your relationship and trust.  Have fun with it and create something unique between you and your pet.  And if you run into problems, please contact us and we’re happy to chat!
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Troubleshooting your training

6/20/2022

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When it seems like your training isn’t working, your dog isn’t getting the concepts and/or training is frustrating instead of fun, check out the troubleshooting items below:
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  • Medical – Is there an underlying medical or neurological issue that needs to be resolved first?  Does the dog have health problems that cause pain or discomfort?  Is the dog on a quality diet? (Poor diets can cause dogs to feel crummy and can affect behavior and training.)
    Post spay/neuters, dogs in heat and pregnant dogs find focusing and training challenging.  Take a break during these times and make sure they get physical exercise and plenty of chews and food dispensing toys.
  • Environment – Have there been changes in the dog’s life that are causing stress, is the environment too distracting or are there events that make training difficult? (In the process of moving, thunderstorms, family member is in poor health, etc…).
  • ROR (Rate of Reinforcement) – Are you rewarding the dog frequently enough for them to connect the rewards with the desired behavior?
  • Quality of Reinforcement – Are you paying well enough for the behavior you want?  For example, if Kibble is a low-value reward for your dog, you can’t expect them to work for that around high-level distractions (like other animals or finding cheesecake on the ground).  Try upping the value of the reward.
  • Timing – How well do you time your marker and rewards after the desired behavior?  Studies tell us that we have tops 2-3 seconds after a behavior occurs to give a marker and reward the dog will connect with the behavior.  However, if the dog offers multiple behaviors within that window, they will associate the reward with the last behavior they did.  This is why the timing of markers is so important.
  • Attitude – Are you treating training like it’s a chore or a game?  Your dog can tell the difference!  They get excited about what you get excited about so bring on the energy and the happy tones!  DO NOT train if you’re in a bad mood or you’ve already had a stressful day.  Take a break from training and give your dog something else to do instead.  If you don’t feel a little silly when you work with your dog in front of others, you might not be doing it right.
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  • Length of sessions – Try shorter training sessions with just 2-5 repetitions at a time.  Many dogs struggle with new exercises and don’t have the brain power and attention span to handle longer training lessons.  When starting new behaviors, train for 5-10 minutes max.  Keep in mind that puppies, adolescents and seniors tend to struggle more with focus and attention span.  The key is multiple short sessions each day.
  • Take a break – sometimes dogs, just like people, get burnt out and need a break.  Especially with any training that can cause additional stress (like reactivity training).  It takes 72 hours for stress hormones to leave the body.  Start with a 3-day training break (but still play with them and give them things to do), then try again.  Puppies and adolescents in particular, seem to need longer training breaks sometimes.  Try giving them up to 7 days, then try again.
    Note that you don’t always need to take a break from ALL training.  Known cues or easy behaviors for your dog should be fine to practice.
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  • Check your three Ds (Distance, Duration and Distractions) – Are you adding too much at once? Are you going too far too fast?  Remember that training often happens in baby steps.  Go back to an easier step and use the 90% rule.  Don’t increase the difficulty in any area until your dog is 90% consistent in performing the behavior at the asked-for level of difficulty.
  • Learning style – changing the approach to teaching may greatly benefit your dog depending on their learning style and likes and dislikes.  Pairing recall with a fetch and retrieve game might work better for a dog who loves to play fetch.  Pairing recall with a chase game might work better for a dog drawn to movement. 
  • Threshold – This really falls under the 3 Ds, but it’s worth repeating.  The point at which your dog no longer takes treats, won’t listen, or can’t perform known behaviors (like sit), is their threshold point.  They literally can’t focus on your and can’t learn because their brain is in a state of over arousal.  Don’t punish them or get frustrated, just dial back the difficulty a few notches by decreasing the 3 Ds, then try again.
    *Note that for fearful and reactive dogs, if they’re past threshold, their brain goes into fight or flight mode.  Learning will not occur in this primal survival mode their brain is locked in if they’re past threshold.  The best thing you can do is put distance between them and whatever’s causing the reaction.  If they do have an outburst or run to hide, give them a break for three days while you practice easy stuff or work on your relationship at home.  This will give their body a chance to flush stress hormones. 
  • What are you rewarding? – Make sure you’re rewarding desired behaviors far more than correcting undesired behaviors.  Remember that reinforced behaviors occur more frequently and punished/ignored behaviors decrease.  Only the learner decides what’s reinforcing and what’s punishing. 
  • Management – Management simply means taking steps to ensure they can’t reinforce themselves for bad behaviors.  For example, if your dog likes to get into the trash can, put the trash cans behind doors or out of reach when you aren’t actively supervising your dog.  Are any of your management areas failing?  If so, fix them or find alternative management methods. 
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Don't forget to reference the Human Hierarchy for help with which tools to use and when!  If you need help or have questions, please contact us.  We're more than happy to help and we offer online lessons as well!
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Heat Cycles – What to Expect

6/15/2022

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Zora finally went into her first heat.  I chose to let her go through at least one heat cycle before spaying due to the benefits shown by more recent studies that looked at hormones, growth patterns and long-term health benefits.  I have no intentions of breeding her (in fact I’m going to great lengths to avoid that). Contrary to what some people believe and what older, outdated information may say, there is NO BENEFIT for your dog’s health to letting her have a litter of puppies before spaying.  Any perceived benefits were likely due to letting the dog go through a heat cycle and avoiding a pediatric spay.
On average, female dogs will go into their first heat around 6 months of age, although depending on size and each individual, heat cycles can start anywhere from 4 months of age to 24 months. 
Heat cycles are made up of 4 main stages – Proestrus, Estrus, Diestrus and Anestrus.  The main phase of the heat cycle typically lasts 20-30 days, but depends on each individual dog.  First cycles are often less intense than following cycles.
Proestrus starts with swelling of the vulva and red/bloody discharge.  How much will depend on your dog’s breed, size and individual body.  Larger dogs can bleed more than smaller dogs.  This phase usually lasts around 7-10 days.
Estrus is the period of time when your dog is most likely to be receptive to mating and when they can become pregnant (although dogs have been known to become pregnant through different stages of the heat cycle as well).  She may seek out males to try to mate.  This phase also lasts around 7-10 days.
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Diestrus is the period of rest after Estrus. There may or may not be additional swelling of the vulva and discharge. This phase often lasts 7-10 days (or longer if she becomes pregnant).
Anestrus is the final phase and is the period of time between heat cycles.  This can last anywhere from 5-9 months.  During this phase your dog should have no swelling (although nipples may become a little larger after the first heat) and no discharge.
You can help your dog by continuing all of their normal activities, providing additional walks and enrichment, adding absorbent cloth materials to their bedding and ensuring they are closely supervised with all dogs during their heat cycle.  Even neutered males may give unwanted attention and though rare, may cause injuries through attempted mating. 
You will need to take a break from taking your dog to dog facilities (other than the vet if needed), dog parks and off-leash dog trails.  She should NOT be around un-neutered male dogs during this time.
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Supervise your female or keep her secure and indoors when you cannot actively supervise her.  You will need to manage her environment and which dogs she has access to for a full 30 days.  Note that dogs have and will breed through kennels and fences.  They are also notorious escape artists (males and females) when there’s a breeding opportunity.
You may also want to restrict your dog to easy-to-clean areas and/or get some cloth doggy diapers for her to wear.  The diapers help with mess and also help to prevent pregnancies (though that’s not enough protection from a persistent dog).  Give your dog breaks from the diapers if you use those since they can make your dog more susceptible to UTIs.
Your dog’s behavior will likely change during her cycle.  She may become more aloof, more cuddly, want to play with other dogs, want nothing to do with other dogs, more whiny, restless, snippy or have a variety of other behavior changes.  Remember, physical health affects behavior!
For more information about the heat cycle, consult with your vet and/or find some good breeders to talk with about their experiences.  Personally, I've found it more informative and helpful to listen to/chat with seasoned, ethical dog breeders.  It's been fascinating to learn their stories and see how different each of their breeds and individual dogs behave and go through their cycles.
You should also educate yourself on the risks and benefits of keeping an in-tact dog and if that's something you are up for and responsibly able to do.
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Enrichment – The Most Important Thing For Your Pet

6/1/2022

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Enrichment is the wheel of behaviors your pet would naturally do “in the wild” or when left to their own devices.  This assumes your pet is physically and mentally healthy.  Pain, neurological conditions or mental disorders will affect an animal’s normal behaviors (humans included).
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Your pets’ enrichment wheel will depend on their individual personality first and foremost, species and breed (if applicable).  For example, if you have a pet rat, their wheel would consist of things like foraging for food and water, social play, lots of grooming (both singular and allogrooming – social grooming), lots of chewing, building nests, finding shelter, sleeping, etc.  If you have a border collie, their wheel would probably consist of thing like smelling, herding behaviors (chase, stalk, circle, nip), lots of brain games, foraging for food and water, lots of walking/running, sleep, social play (often with a human, but many individuals have friends with other animals), etc.
When all of your pets’ enrichment needs are met, you’ll probably find that most of their behaviors you object to seem to melt away.  This is because when they are mentally and physically enriched, they aren’t looking for other ways to meet those needs.  If appropriate chews are provided for them that they like AND they’ve received reinforcement for chewing on those, they have no reason to chew on your shoes, or your table.  If they’ve been given appropriate height and material scratching areas in places where they feel safe using them (often next to places they’ve already been scratching), they have no reason to scratch your couch. 
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Most people immediately jump straight to training to solve behavior problems.  Training is wonderful and is a great complementor to enrichment.  However, enrichment should always be priority number one and should do the heavy lifting.
In an ideal world it should go Enrichment -> Management -> Training.  All three should be used together to create the optimal healthy relationship between pet and owner.  We understand that it’s not always possible to do all three, so our recommendation is to prioritize in the above order.  Again, there are always exceptions and in certain cases, management or training may need to be prioritized for the safety of the pet or those around them.  Seek qualified professional help if you are unsure of what to do.
So what exactly is Enrichment?
As stated above, it’s different for each individual and species, but let’s go through a more typical example of an enrichment wheel for a dog.  These are options to choose from and you don’t need to do every thing every day.  The average dog needs about 2 hours of activity a day.  You’ll need to play around with things and figure out what works best for your dog. Note that mental exercise usually tires a dog out 4x faster than physical exercise but is NOT a replacement for physical exercise.
Physical
  • Diet/nutrition
    • Foraging
      • Scatter-feeding
      • Food dispensers (DIY and store-bought)
      • Food puzzles
      • Stuffable products like Kong and Toppl
    • Training
      • This can and should include using regular kibble during mealtimes
    • Stop using regular food bowls (they’re a wasted opportunity!)
  • Exercise
    •  Walks/Runs/Hiking (Note that walks aren’t good exercise except for seniors or dogs with limited mobility)
    • Swimming
    • Bikejoring or any other “joring” sport
    • Competition or for fun dog sports (check with your vet first!)
    • Fetch
    • Tug
    • Flirt pole
    • Digging
    • Trick-training
    • Balance pods, Dog yoga
    • Healthy play with you or other animals
    • Be careful with growing puppies and don’t create an athlete unless you can handle it!
  • Environmental
    • Need at least one nap during the day, preferably more – especially puppies and seniors
    • Need a safe (physically) and secure (emotionally) space to live
    • Need to feel comfortable with the surroundings
      • Noise
      • Textures
      • Inanimate objects
      • Movements
      • This includes neighbors/neighborhood
    • Need to feel comfortable with the people they live with/interact with on a regular basis
    • Need to have some sort of routine/predictability to reduce stress
  • Health
    • Routine check-ups
    • Behavior changes may indicate poor health
    • Think about how your health affects your behavior
  • Hygiene
    • Not the same as human hygiene!
    • Dogs usually do pretty well with keeping clean
    • Bathe no more than every 6 weeks unless they REALLY need it
    • Spot clean with unscented pet wipes
    • Trim fur around feet and sanitary areas if needed (ask a groomer for help if you aren’t sure what you’re doing)
  • Safety
    • Need help to be kept physically safe – dogs don’t know the difference between security and safety.  They may feel secure wandering in the middle of the road or approaching an unknown dog.  We need to make decisions for them and manage their safety.
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Emotional
  • Independence
    • Learning to be ok left by themselves for short periods
    • Learning to entertain themselves without your constant attention
    • Karen Overall’s Relaxation Protocol
    • Agency – the capacity, condition or state of acting of exerting power (having a say on what happens to them)
      • Opposite of learned helplessness
      • Immunization Training – how we train animals to be resistant to learned helplessness
  • Mental Stimulation
    • Training (especially trick-training)
    • Confidence-building exercises (trying anything new they can easily succeed at)
    • Foraging
    • Scent-work
    • Introductions to different sounds, scents, tactile stimulations, tastes, etc.
    • Play/Social Play
  • Social Interaction
    • Play (healthy play with people, dogs or other species)
    • Observation/Social learning
    • Social activities (naps/cuddles together, chewing/eating together, walks, etc.)
    • Training
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Instinctual
  • Foraging
  • Chewing
  • Security
  • Other behaviors specific to your individual dog
    • Herding
    • Digging
    • Nipping/Biting
    • Guarding
    • Retrieval
    • "Velcro" behavior
    • Barking
    • etc.
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All of this must be done with the dog choosing to participate.  If the dog is given no choice, this is not enrichment.  This is forced interaction and will likely become flooding, which can lead to learned helplessness – the opposite of what we wish to accomplish through an enrichment program.
Start with 2-3 of these activities each day and build from there.  See what your dog likes and change up the activities each day to keep things interesting.  For different species, research your species and based on what your individual pet likes, create a similar enrichment list.
If you have any questions, please contact us and we’d be happy to help!
Additional, amazing resources:
Canine Enrichment for the Real World by Allie Bender and Emily Strong
Facebook group – Canine Enrichment (mostly foraging ideas, but still good info)
Facebook group – Canine Enrichment Ideas (mostly foraging ideas but still good info)
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Before hiring a dog trainer, read this (Part 2)

5/30/2022

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Let's continue what to look for when finding an ethical, skilled dog trainer with an up-to-date tool kit.  In part 2 we'll discuss the red flags (bad), the green flags (good) and other considerations to think about.
Quick Test
There are competent and knowledgeable trainers across different disciplines of training just as there are incompetent and uneducated trainers across different disciplines.
If you want to quickly figure out if the trainer you're talking to knows their basics, ask them to explain the difference between positive reinforcement, positive punishment, negative reinforcement and negative punishment.
These are the 4 quadrants of behavior and every trainer should know what they are, an example of each and when it's important to purposely utilize which quadrants.
Ready for your cheat sheet? It's super easy.
Positive means you add something.  Negative means you take something away.
Reinforcement means you increase a behavior.  Punishment means you decrease a behavior.
That's it.
Examples:
Positive Reinforcement - you give your dog a treat for sitting, which causes them to sit more often because something good happened when they sat.
Negative Reinforcement - removing a stimulus your dog doesn't like from their environment (like a vacuum cleaner or a dog across the street) when your dog turns their attention to you.
Positive Punishment - you say "ah ah!" when your dog (who has a good history of leaving food alone and is sensitive to verbal corrections) tries to take food from a table.
Negative Punishment - you leave the room when your dog jumps on you.
Red Flags
-  If they talk about being dominant, alpha or pack leader, find someone else.  They’re working off of outdated and long-debunked info.
-  If they’re physically moving your dog into positions or using the leash to force your dog to move where they want them to go, find someone else.  Not only can this be really stressful for your dog and actually damage your relationship with them, but it can physically hurt them.  Plus, your dog will learn MUCH faster if they’re having fun and they’re choosing to engage and make the decisions themselves.
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-  When they use the same tools and exercises for every dog they work with.  This doesn’t include safety gear like your basic leash and collar or food rewards.  But if they put every dog into a board and train regardless of personality or background, they use an e-collar for every dog they work with, they use a clicker for every dog they work with, etc.  They should consult with you about your dog’s history, your preferences, then make a personalized plan.
-  If they use tools that have a high likelihood of being aversive, causing a stress response and creating additional physical/emotional damage to dogs, they better have a dang good reason.  These tools include physical corrections, e-collars, choke collars and prong collars, but this can include anything that your dog finds aversive.  Even food rewards can be used in an abusive manner. 
For the record, the majority of trainers who use these tools because they genuinely want to help and create positive outcomes.  They just might not have as big a toolbox as other trainers who dedicate more time and effort to productively honing their craft with updated methods and techniques.  They’re doing the best they can with the information they have.
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-  Trainers who don’t refer out and don’t play nice with others.  Trainers who refuse to refer out care more about their bottom line than getting you the best possible help.  If they don’t have a good network and don’t talk with colleagues, they aren’t going to learn nearly as much.  You learn the most from other colleagues and trainers will often seek advice from each other.  If that network isn’t in place, you’re doing a disservice to your clients and yourself.
-  Similarly, trainers who seem to offer every service.  Ever heard the phrase “Jack of all trades – Master of none.”? If they focus on too many things (basic obedience, reactivity, agility, bitework/protection, trick training, search and rescue, service dogs, etc.), they aren’t going to get really good at any of those. Unless it’s a really large training company with a lot of different trainers who each focus on a few areas, you’re not going to get the most knowledgeable service.
I personally know trainers who'll often only spend a few days/weeks learning a new skill before offering those to the public.  In some cases, like a technique for loose leash walking, to get better attention or a training game, that's fine.  But for an entire branch of training, like any dog sports, service dog work, competition scent-work, etc, these skills take much longer to learn and years to master.
-  If they don’t have a contract and don’t take any form of client history about your dog.  It’s a sign that they aren’t legally organized, which means less protection for you.  They may not have insurance or have their business license.  If they aren’t taking client history, they don’t have the information needed to better build a custom training plan (for private lessons).
-  Really low pricing.  Unless they’re running a massive promo and/or they’re getting some other value from you, if they’re charging less than $70 a session, there’s a reason.  It’s probably because they’re a hobby trainer who has minimal experience and education, probably no license, probably no liability/business insurance, might not have a business set up or registered, and might make all of your problems worse.  You get what you pay for.
Green Flags
- They use terms like positive reinforcement, science-based, fear-free, and LIMA (least intrusive, minimally aversive).  Although you do still need to be careful, because again, these are marketing terms and aren’t regulated.  Anyone can use them and not actually use those methods.  I know trainers who claim to use LIMA methods who actually use pretty outdated and stressful methods.  Positive reinforcement in particular is a huge marketing buzzword right now and a lot of trainers will use positive reinforce one second, then use a harsh correction the next second.  This is extremely confusing and stressful for your dog.
-  They have alphabet soup at the end of their name. These show levels of education and certifications earned.  Again, check these to see exactly what they mean.  Some trainers have gone so far as to put the acronyms of organizations they’re a member of behind their name.  They never earned anything, just paid money to join an organization (which doesn’t enable them to use those letters after their name anyway).
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-  They ask you lots of questions and ask you to participate in the training process as much as possible.  They also ask for your consent and read your dogs’ body language to make sure they’re comfortable.  They stop if your dog shows signs of stress or anxiety. They listen to your concerns and modify the training plan to meet your needs.
-  They don’t typically badmouth other trainers and they don’t often have videos of dogs who are stressed, reactive, showing signs of fear, aggression, etc.  Their goal is to never get the dog in those states of mind and to keep the dog as happy and stress-free as possible. Real, ethical dog training is fairly boring to watch.  It doesn’t make for good TV (which is why you don’t see science-based trainers with TV shows).
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-  They often have titles they’ve earned with their personal dog (tricks, obedience, sports, etc.)
-  They try to turn training into a game for your dog and make it as fun as possible.
-  They do a lot of continuing education.
-  They network with other trainers/pet pros and have a good referral network.
-  They don’t make time-based or behavior-based guarantees.  The reason for this is each dog is an individual and will behave differently and take different amounts of time than another individual to get from point A to point B.  Putting a time limit on behavior puts a lot of pressure on the trainer and the dog and turns the process into an aversive experience for everyone involved.  It’s setting everyone up for failure.  Guaranteeing behaviors of a living animal is risky at best.  Guaranteeing the behavior of a live animal that doesn’t live with you where you can manage their enrichment, day-to-day training and interactions with other people and animals is impossible.  There are far too many variables.  We cannot and would not control the behavior of others just to make a silly marketing guarantee.
Other Considerations
-  Reviews don’t mean what you think they mean.  I mean this with all the love in the world for dog owners – many dog owners haven’t learned to read their own dogs’ body language or interpret what their dog is trying to tell them.  Many dog owners seem to think the easiest solution is the best solution.  Many dog owners also just buy into whatever any dog trainer tells them, without looking at the whole picture. And a whole ton more dog owners don’t feel comfortable for various reasons leaving honest reviews of bad experiences.
There are also a number of ways to collect lots of non-authentic 5-star ratings.
All of this adds up to a decent number of companies that have just the worst training methods, ethics, customer service, etc (I mean, I can tell you some stories, and not just about dog training companies) that have dozens to hundreds of 5 star reviews.
The best thing to do with reviews is to look at the owner responses to the negative reviews.  That will tell you a lot more about the business than the reviews will.
You can also ask trusted friends and family members about their experiences.
-  Experience isn’t everything.  A trainer may have decades of the wrong kind of experience.  In fact, if they’ve invested lots of time and energy into a certain way of training, they’re much less likely to be open to changing the way they train – even if they know how they train is less effective and more likely to cause harm. Ego can be very powerful. 
I have and will continue to refer to trainers who only have 1-2 years of experience (for easier clients) over other trainers who have much more experience, but the wrong kind.
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-  Similar to reviews, just because a trainer has a large following, travels to lecture, gives lots of workshops or charges sky-high pricing, does NOT necessarily mean they’re a skilled trainer.  They may just have good people skills.  There are also some amazing dog trainers who can train circles around a lot of the more popular trainers who don’t have any following yet because they don’t know how to market themselves.
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